
explore morocco on two wheels
Desert Rats was founded by John Griffiths, Su Downham, and Martine Goldenbeld after years of traveling and working in Morocco. While working as a motorcycle guide for Motor Adventures’ KTM tours, John noticed something different: local Berber families riding their Docker motorbikes through the mountains and desert, sometimes with a full household on board, moving calmly, without rush, and clearly enjoying the ride. It was the complete opposite of the high-speed, non-stop KTM tours.
During the quiet of the Covid-19 lockdowns, with plenty of time to explore Morocco at a slower pace, the idea for Desert Rats was born. We offer motorcycle tours for adventurous travelers who want to experience real Moroccan life, off the beaten path, without needing a motorcycle license, and always with a sense of fun and discovery. Our tours are built around four key values: local transport, cultural immersion, off-road exploration, and having a great time.
After months of testing local bikes and scouting the best tracks, Desert Rats launched its first tours in October 2021. We now run guided tours in the Atlas Mountains and the Sahara Desert, riding Docker Apollo motorbikes—the same bikes locals use every day.
Our home base is in Ouarzazate, where we have a fully equipped garage and 14 Docker Apollos ready to go, along with 3 KTM 390 Adventure bikes for those wanting a solo trip.
Desert Rats

Martine Goldenbeld – Co Owner
Being brought up on a charter sailing ship in the Netherlands, means tourism, hospitality, and adventure are all in my bones. After working as a hospitality manager, camp manager, and lodge manager in several African countries I started Desert Rats Tours in 2020. With my Medical First Aid, Medical Care certificate, and enthusiasm, I am good to go!
I am responsible for the running of Desert Rats tours, I’ll be your Docker Apollo guide or drive the assistance vehicle and I take care of the well-being of our guests. Also, as a Graphic Designer, I am responsible for the website and social media.
I have also added Dutch and a little German to our team’s languages.

John Griffiths – Co Owner
I was born in Tanzania and worked for the 16 years prior to MotoAventures in the oil-related diving business. I have hyperbaric medical training and experience from my years working offshore, as well as the Wilderness Medical Certificate, and safety (a highly important issue in biking – one which is often not given sufficient attention) is something I pay particular attention to.
Being responsible for route finding and checking for our various different adventures, I get to wander around discovering hidden, lesser known parts of this beautiful country.
Early 90s I rode solo from London to Cape Town for over two years and apparently, I’m a very proficient off-road rider. I speak a little English, French, Spanish and Swahili.

Su Downham – Co Owner
I have lived and worked in Andorra for over 30 years working in tourism, PR, and running a small estate agency and construction company before moving into the world of motorcycles.
Through years of wandering the Moroccan backroads between operating our motorcycle tours with John I realised what an exceptionally beautiful and diverse country this is, and now split my year between here and Europe.
I will be helping with the Desert Rat tours by occasionally driving the support vehicle when needed, while continuing to organise everything, as I have through the years, for MotoAventures.
I speak English, Spanish, Catalan and French fluently and also have my Wilderness Medical Certificate.
With over 25 years of organizing quality guided on- and off-road tours around the Pyrenees, Morocco and Southern Africa, John and Su bring in a huge amount of knowledge and experience to Desert Rats.